This jewellery designer has adorned icons like Rihanna, Lady Gaga, JLo, Nick Jonas, and others

Meet Payal Shah, the visionary Hong Kong-based jewellery designer behind L'Dezen. Her signature pieces radiate a bold attitude and distinctive cool factor, attracting an impressive clientele that includes Rihanna, Lady Gaga, JLo, Nick Jonas, and Demi Lovato. Recognised as one of Asia’s most influential figures in the NFT and AI landscape, Shah shares insights on the carats to covet right now and breaks down the trends that are shaping the future of fine jewellery.

Brides Today: How is sustainability influencing jewellery trends, particularly in the context of heritage pieces?
Payal Shah: Sustainability has shifted from a buzzword to a central focus, especially in jewellery. Many people, including brides, are embracing heritage jewellery by reworking heirloom pieces, which extends their lifecycle and honours family history. For example, a client in Hong Kong wanted her extravagant wedding necklace with diamonds and sapphires transformed into two more wearable necklaces, incorporating her original stones. Additionally, a rental model is emerging, where brands allow customers to design wedding jewellery and sell it back at a discount post-event. This trend encourages reusable and re-wearable options, without the commitment of ownership. Overall, we’re going to see a shift toward these options, making it easier for people to enjoy beautiful pieces in various contexts without always needing something new.

BT: As a jewellery designer, do you support the growing interest in lab-grown diamonds among young buyers who prioritise planetary health?
PS: I'm a purist when it comes to natural diamonds, they honour the earth's magic. While I don’t oppose lab-grown diamonds, I believe there's value in both. The lab-grown market is thriving, but many buyers don’t fully grasp the pricing and environmental implications. While younger consumers often reference blood diamonds, many diamonds today are recycled, which merits more attention. Lab-grown diamonds may seem sustainable, yet the energy and resources used in their creation raise questions about their true impact. For genuine sustainability, we need transparency on their energy consumption. Ultimately, if someone prefers a lab-grown diamond for budget reasons, that’s fine, but labelling them as entirely ethical overlooks their environmental costs.

BT: How has the trend of personalisation in bridal jewellery evolved, and what options do couples have to make their pieces truly unique to their love story?
PS: Personalisation in jewellery has gained so much momentum, especially for wedding bands and engagement rings that capture meaningful stories. I recently launched an AI jewellery generator that enables users to create custom designs from just four prompts, focusing on how these pieces can reflect personal narratives. For instance, one client wanted to commemorate her first meeting at the zoo, so we incorporated green to symbolise the parrots they saw together—an emotional marker that isn't overt but adds depth to the design. This approach allows for cheeky, cryptic clues that connect the couple on a deeper level. With AI making design more accessible, couples can now collaborate closely with designers using tools like our app or platforms like Midjourney to create unique pieces that tell their own love stories. This trend is likely to continue growing as more people seek out customisation in their jewellery.

BT: With a roster of celebrity clients and a keen sense of enduring trends, what key aesthetics and materials do you see gaining traction?
PS: In India, traditional preferences lean heavily toward yellow gold—particularly in the south—but modern brides are increasingly selecting metals that complement their outfits and skin tones. This shift could create space for platinum as people consciously mix and match styles. Rubies are definitely making a comeback with their striking blood-red hue, while soft colours like pastel pinks are also gaining popularity. Emeralds and rubies remain timeless, and blue sapphires never go out of style when set appropriately. Polki jewellery is expanding beyond traditional Indian wear to become a global trend. Personally, I adore uncut diamonds; they offer a unique character and charm. I often opt for uncut pieces when dressing in Indian attire, and I love how they beautifully complement enamels and other stones. The lustre of uncut diamonds is simply unmatched.

BT: The jewellery industry is not immune to the influence of Artificial Intelligence. How do you see it impacting the jewellery we wear and the customer experience?
PS: I believe AI and technology will significantly enhance jewellery design, allowing creators to develop new collections more efficiently. AI-driven diamond grading and blockchain technology will provide transparency regarding materials and help estimate costs, which is essential in today's price-sensitive market. Blockchain will trace gemstone origins, ensuring ethical sourcing and confirming the authenticity and history of each piece, thereby promoting sustainability.

In the Indian market, I see potential for 3D printing and laser cutting techniques, which align well with a preference for vintage aesthetics while still allowing for striking modern designs. For everyday pieces, comfort and durability are paramount, so technologies that enhance these qualities will be vital. CAD and AI will shape the future of e-commerce by enabling consumers to customise designs interactively. Imagine being able to watch a robot create your piece in real time, transforming jewellery shopping into an engaging and sensory experience with added value.

All images: Instagram / Payal Shah and Instagram / Ldezen

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