This Durga Puja pandal in Kolkata is paying homage to the Jamdani textile

It’s that time of the year when all of Kolkata becomes a larger-than-life art festival, with the streets witnessing a host of vibrant shades and idols of the goddess Durga in all her glory. Muster some courage as you take a walk amidst the hustle and bustle of the city and you’ll see large crowds throng pandals that boast extravagant themes and artworks. Despite the world modernising and the themes ranging from spirituality, social reform, and a focus on the environment, to name a few, there’s one pandal this year—the Dumdum Park Bharat Chakra whose theme pays homage to a traditional Indian textile. Bow down to the Goddess, and then to the renowned Jamdani weave. 

What does one get to see here? 

The pandal aims to restore the lost importance of the Jamdani weave, which has its origins in the lands of Bengal well before the Partition of India. Designed by Aditi Chakrabarty, its theme ‘Udaan’ focuses on strengthening the wings of the talented weavers involved in weaving the intricate Jamdani. Celebrating the detailing and legacy of the textile, every nook and corner of the space is adorned with the sari weaves, highlighting its origins from an undivided Bengal and its evolution to leave its mark on the entire world. The Durga idol itself dons a pastel shade Jamdani weave in clay. There’s also a map marking the specific regions in Bangladesh and West Bengal where the textile is woven

History of the Jamdani textile

While some historians say the technique of weaving Jamdani goes back all the way to the fifth century, it was in the 16th century, during the Mughal era, that the textile flourished. The integration of intricate designs and floral motifs made Jamdani a symbol of grandeur and sophistication. It was in Dhaka, the capital of present-day Bangladesh, where skilled weavers and artisans revolutionised the craft. In later years with the advent of the East India Company, there was a decline in demand as the once-traditional handloom fabric made way for machine-made textiles that were imported from the mills of Manchester. In the late 20th century, however, the Jamdani once again witnessed a change of fortune as traditional crafts witnessed a revival with artisans initiating a homegrown movement of their own. And then the year 2013 saw the traditional art of weaving Jamdani declared as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. 

It’s important to remember that Jamdani is more than just a textile. Used in traditional garments such as saris and dupattas, it continues to be a symbol of Bengal’s rich cultural identity and heritage. Known for its fine, lightweight quality and elaborate patterns, Jamdani has indeed come a long way from being a handcrafted traditional textile to now being recognised in the modern world—one that its people can witness and marvel at, none more so at the Dumdum Park Bharat Chakra Pandal. 

Also read: Four designers discuss the reinvention of the classic sari

image credits: saptarshiroyc | Instagram