How to throw a South Indian brunch

Whether you celebrate Onam or not, a sadhya is one of the most elaborate vegetarian meals you can find in India. It is also a great example of fresh, seasonal, farm-to-table produce. In Feast on a Leaf, veteran chef Arun Kumar T.R. shares the history, rituals, and folklore from the culture, with a focus on this famous Kerala meal, as celebrated by generations of his family.

Get a peek into a traditional Nair Tharavad kitchen and learn how to recreate these iconic dishes, perfect for brunch.

Achinga/Payaru Thoran 

String beans stir-fry

This traditional Kerala stir-fry showcases finely cut string beans, enhanced with fresh coconut and aromatic spices. While French beans are commonly used today, the authentic recipe calls for string beans, a staple in Tharavad homes. The key to this dish lies in the precise cutting of the beans, creating a delightful texture in every bite.

Ingredients: 250 gm string beans or French beans, 1 tbsp coconut oil, 1⁄2 tsp mustard seeds, 1–2 dried red chillies (torn), salt to taste, 1⁄2 cup (around 50 gm) coconut (grated), 1 sprig curry leaves

Method: String and chop beans finely or into 1-inch pieces. Heat coconut oil in a pan, add mustard seeds and dried red chillies, and let them splutter. Add chopped green beans, and sauté on high heat for a few minutes. Sprinkle water, add salt, cover, and cook on medium heat for 5–8 minutes until the beans are just cooked but still crunchy. Add grated coconut and curry leaves, mix well, and serve warm.

Kaalan

Yam and raw banana curry

This curry, combining sour yoghurt, yam, raw bananas, and coconut, is said to represent a special dish requested by a young Brahmin from the demon king Mahabali. The perfect kaalan strikes a delicate balance between tangy, pungent, sweet, and sour flavours.

Ingredients: 250 gm yam, 150 gm (1–2) raw bananas, turmeric powder as required, 1 cup (around 200 gm) yoghurt/curd, 1 cup (around 100 gm) coconut, 1–2 green chillies, 1 tsp cumin seeds, salt to taste, oil for tempering, 1⁄2 tsp mustard seeds, 1–2 dried red chillies, 1 sprig curry leaves

Method: Peel, rinse and chop the yam and bananas. Soak them in turmeric water, and cook them separately. Whisk the yoghurt until smooth. Grind the coconut with green chillies, cumin seeds, and turmeric to a paste. Combine the coconut paste with curd, and bring to a boil. Add the cooked yam and banana, and cook briefly. Temper with mustard seeds, red chillies, and curry leaves in hot oil, pour over the curry and mix.

Kootu Kari 

Mixed Vegetable and Chickpea Curry

Kootu Kari, deeply rooted in Kerala’s harvest traditions, symbolizes the harmonious blending of various elements. This dish, often prepared during festivals as an offering to deities, showcases a medley of locally available vegetables and black chickpeas, celebrating the abundance of the harvest season.

Ingredients: 125 gm black chickpeas, 1 cup (around 100 gm) grated coconut, 1–2 green chillies, 1⁄2 tsp cumin seeds, 1⁄2 tsp black pepper, 2.5 cm piece ginger, 1 sprig curry leaves, turmeric powder as required, salt to taste, water as required, 100 gm yam, 100 gm raw banana, 100 gm snake gourd/yellow pumpkin. For tempering: 2 tbsp oil, 1⁄2 tsp mustard seeds, 1–2 dried red chillies, 1 pinch asafoetida

Method: Soak and cook the black chickpeas until soft. Blend the coconut with green chillies, cumin seeds, pepper, ginger, curry leaves, turmeric and salt to a paste. Prepare and cook the vegetables separately. Combine the cooked chickpeas, vegetables, and coconut paste in a pan. Season with mustard seeds, dried red chilies, curry leaves, and asafoetida tempered in oil. Mix well and serve.

Lead image credits: Pexels

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