Gaurav Gupta's evolution in bridal couture

Dubai-based fashion journalist and author Sujata Assomull vividly remembers attending Gaurav Gupta’s debut show in 2006 at the then Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week. It was a moment filled with excitement as there was a lot of buzz around the Central Saint Martins alumnus, who had returned to India with a fresh approach to design. “During our interview at that time, he mentioned that he didn’t intend to enter the Indian wear market. But like many designers, he soon realised the significance of embracing this audience,” says Assomull, who also highlights that Indian fashion is rich in heritage and tradition, and it’s challenging to be a contemporary designer—especially in the bridalwear space—without drawing inspiration from our own culture. 

“What sets him apart is the way he incorporated these elements in his distinctive style. He ventured into bridalwear, beginning with his sari gowns (which he introduced in 2006) and extraordinary ball-gown lehengas that were part of his evening wear collections,” she adds. “Brides found his creations so refreshing and unique that they began to wear them for cocktail events during weddings, even before his official entry into the bridal wear segment.” 

Carving his path 

The sari gown, in particular, has become Gupta’s signature. With it, the designer has reimagined the typically rectangular fabric wrapped around the body in various styles, into something more alluring. For instance, he introduced into our fashion vocabulary a Grecian-style drape, incorporating details such as knotting and plaiting to create a sexier, more contemporary version of the classic sari. 

Since his debut nearly two decades ago, Gupta has grown from strength to strength. However, his early high-concept collections featured more understated colour palettes, which challenged the prevailing trends in the country’s fashion market at the time. Transitioning these runway creations into successful commercial sales took time and patience to navigate and refine. But being a highly concept-driven brand in a rather traditional market, Gupta quickly learned to successfully strike a balance in creating wearable art.

This year, however, saw Gupta reach stratospheric heights. Not only did he make his debut at Paris Haute Couture Week with his collection ‘Shunya,’ but his sculptural creations also attracted eyeballs when worn by global A-listers like Beyoncé, Cardi B, Lizzo, and Kylie Minogue. Even at this year’s Oscars, rapper Megan Thee Stallion made an appearance in a stunning custom-designed slate-blue, body-hugging gown by the designer. It featured a dramatic train that flowed like delicate waves, which garnered remarkable reviews across the web.

International acclaim 

Arson Nicki, a US-based digital content creator and fashion commentator, attributes Gupta’s success—at least in part—to his skill of translating cosmic cerebral abstractions into garments that possess a universal beauty. 

“Folks don’t necessarily need to know the inspiration behind his collections to understand their beauty,” he says. “He describes his aesthetic sensibilities as ‘future primitive,’ which is right on target because he uses elemental concepts to design evening wear that appears ahead of its time.”

Westerners, Nicki adds, may have a stereotypical idea of Indian fashion, often associating it with vibrant colours, intricate graphics, and prints and modest, flowing skirts adorned with plenty of jewellery—but Gupta subverts that.

“He incorporates traditional beading techniques, but diverges from the conventional by often designing hemlines that are cut high above the knee,” he says. “Stereotypes persist, whether or not they accurately represent the rich and diverse landscape of Indian fashion and culture. Gupta’s approach challenges these stereotypes by offering a fresh, contemporary, and innovative perspective on Indian fashion.” 

The evolution of bridalwear 

Despite his many successes internationally, the designer’s modern approach to bridal couture continues to be celebrated as he has, time and again, strayed from the conventions around this category, be it through the use of embroidery or colours.

“Lately, we’ve been experimenting a lot with some accessories to add more drama—like taffeta sleeves or capes, or an embroidered tulle veil to accentuate the look overall,” Gupta tells Brides Today. “We don’t design keeping in mind a particular segment. In fact, I feel my collections cater to all and are more about style than age groups.” 

The couturier’s designs are irrevocably true to the ethos and philosophy of the Gaurav Gupta brand, which has embodied an unconventional spirit since its inception. And it just so happens that the label is able to fulfil the demands of modern-day consumers by virtue of being true to what it stands for. Now, Gupta aims to help brides realise their dreams through a podcast—The Bride Side, where he sets himself apart as a designer by offering valuable advice to brides, assisting them in navigating the complexities of their wedding journey. 

“It’s been truly remarkable to witness the evolution of the Indian bride. The brand has been at the centre of the paradigm shift of how the audience now perceives bridalwear altogether—from our concept sari gowns to sculpted lehengas glistening with glass bugle beads in striking colours,” he highlights. “Women are no longer bound by conventions but are empowered to express themselves through fashion and design in the most extraordinary ways. The digital podcast series was conceptualised as a celebration of their journey to curate their most special day.”

Even after over 18 years in the industry, Gupta has managed to stay true to his initial statement of not diving into conventional Indian wear, says Assomull. “His approach came at a time when many designers were delving deep into Indian traditions in a more literal sense. But he developed his own design language and vocabulary, and today, many designers imitate his cuts and style.”

In the pipeline

So where does Gupta go from here? Saurabh Gupta, co-founder, director, and managing business partner at Gaurav Gupta, says expanding internationally was always part of the plan. 

“We were waiting for the Indian business to stabilise before going global. Global expansion was a long-term goal, but our plans were postponed due to the pandemic; we were delayed by about two years,” he says, adding that in 2024, the wedding segment will see renewed focus. “The Indian wedding market is significant and becoming increasingly competitive. To stand out, we’re expanding our product range. As a brand, we’re now concentrating more on cocktail and reception wear and moving into the wedding day attire for both, the bride and the groom.”

Despite his many achievements and plans for global domination, Gupta remains rooted in who he is as a creator. It’s perhaps his honest approach to design that’s made him a favourite among peers and industry insiders—a commendation he doesn’t take lightly, as we eagerly wait for what he has in store for us next.

Feature Image: @gauravguptaofficial/Instagram

Images: Pinterest, @ggpanther, @barrynrodgers/Instagram