Anamika Khanna up close and personal

Her atelier seems well aligned with the woman of the world, the glocal sensibility that is inclusive (think fluid silhouettes), eclectic (check out the embellished motifs on an AK-OK denim jacket) and ever-evolving.

A fairly young label launched 25 odd years ago, Anamika Khanna’s presentation at the Spring/Summer Lakmé Fashion Week in Mumbai earlier in 2024 saw at least two generations of society women arrive—your front-row ladies, many of them clad in AK’s latest collection. We spotted the one-shoulder AK-OK bias-cut tops with flirtatious sequins and the richly embellished patchwork-panelled denim jackets with laser-cut motifs among her younger clientele, while the society queens sported her more sedate jackets and trouser co-ord sets.

Never afraid to tell a bold story with her fashion, we were asked to imagine the collection as an exploration of a female biker’s nomadic journey along with Odisha’s Bond tribal community. It certainly helped enter this universe with powerful percussion music being played live by Jonqui, accompanied by a female vocalist whose songs resonated with a quest for self-love and inspiration. Existentialist angst never looked so sexy and vibrant!

Let’s face it: when a brand caters to multiple generations, it clearly understands the need to retain a certain freshness. In times where offline retailing moves like a sluggish, dying river (unless the festive and wedding seasons inject a new energy into it), most labels are finding ways to stay alive in alternative ways—leaning on online sales and heavy Instagram marketing, bearing a distinctive stamp of uniqueness and a high aspirational value. It definitely helps that the world is tuning in to these online stores and social media stories. The bridalwear market, too, sees young brides who are far more restless to challenge the old crimson lehenga silhouette. So from all sides, a designer who wishes to stay relevant has to have their ear to the ground.

Today, Anamika’s journey appears to be highly validated as she was clearly on an extremely competitive ride till burnout struck in 2019. By that time, her brand was already decorated with many firsts—the first female Indian designer at Paris Fashion Week; a designer who had an original outfit included in the prestigious India in Fashion showcase at Mumbai’s Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre, among other veterans boasting 30 to 40 years in the business; a listing with the Business of Fashion’s Top 500 fashion designers; and so on.

Anamika is clearly proud of Indian crafts and aesthetics but has a light touch when adapting desi-ideas to her clothes—her AK-OK label in particular, where her young sons are also steering design directions. After all, it was after they saw their hard-working, relentless mom crash and burn that this sub-brand was born, with the boys telling her, “Everything is AK-OK, Maa!”

With the high exposure we have seen to mega-fashion events like the Ambani-Merchant wedding festivities, Anamika’s clothes are well poised to sit among international fashion labels. Think about it—we have Australian brand VRG selling jhumkas as ‘Bohemian Farrah Earrings’, and dupattas being referred to as a European essential by fashion rental company, Bipty! What better time to step up to the demand of Indian cultural ideas and call this fashion appropriation what it really is—high street cultural robbery!

Over to our tête-à-tête with the ultimate ‘biker’ lady of contemporary Indian fashion...

Brides Today: Anamika, congratulations on crossing the 25-year mark with your label Ana Mika and building a new sub-brand like AK-OK. You seemed to have been on a non-stop roller coaster till exhaustion had your sons stepping in and steering AK-OK. From then until now, how do you feel about their youthful ideas? How would you describe the AK-OK aesthetic and its parameters?

Anamika Khanna: I think it is so important to have fresh ideas and young energy, or you can become stagnant and lost in your own world of doing things. It’s important to see what the next generation is doing. Fashion is all about the now and the future. AK-OK is simply what I would wear myself on an everyday basis, to work, lounges, parties, dinners... Anything.

BT: How does workaholism and creativity go together? What do you feel you learned about recharging at that critical time when you were burning out? Do you secretly feel that competition is always just behind you, waiting to overtake?

AK: Creativity is non-stop; you can’t just shut off and recharge at any time. I don’t think that’s how it works. Inspiration and ideas come anytime and from anywhere, and you have to keep trying things out and constantly be at it. You can’t just be creative in your head and do nothing about it. In fashion, you have to be a little obsessive in nature if you really want to do new things. But I think recharging is crucial. For me, it was just taking on fewer projects, but that doesn’t mean I shut off completely. I move at my own pace and enjoy the process much more. When you start out, you are worried about competition a lot. Over time, when you are more established, your focus and priorities change. Now, it’s more about proving things to myself and pushing my own creative limits.

BT: Your brand is associated with many firsts. You’re the first Indian female designer to showcase at Paris Fashion Week; you were listed among Business of Fashion’s Top 500... With all these accolades behind you, are there any milestones you still would love to conquer? Perhaps with your sons playing a vital role?

AK: Now I feel the need to grow internationally much more, represent the country and take Indian craft to the world. One son going to Central Saint Martins in London for his MA in fashion this year, so he’s going to be doing his own thing. The other is at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago studying fine arts and doing his shows. Both are pushing the boundaries of our two brands in their own way and carving out their own path.

BT: If one had to do a retrospective of your work, which silhouettes would you feel are most iconic from your journey? Would you say the draped skirt fixed at the waist, or the dhoti pants? What new flavours did your label bring to bridal collections?

AK: It’s very hard to choose. I think each new silhouette has such a long story of how it came about. They are all special to me. For bridal collections, it’s so important to understand the mind of the customer and make them feel special. I think the colours and the intricate craft and embroidery are something we are known for.

BT: Today, a lot of young designers make their debut internationally and then get their businesses off the ground in India. Your boys have studied abroad. How do the forces of globalisation work with your brands? Do you find your online sales stronger in overseas markets?

AK: Marketing and branding and what people see are so different from what the realities are on ground. Selling and building a customer base takes years of work and trust; it really depends on the product. For bridal wear, couture and special pieces, people want to try it out, touch the material and have the full experience. Online does work for ready- to-wear clothing, but I don’t see it so much for couture.

BT: Fashion rentals are possibly the new big trend, given concerns around leading sustainable lifestyles. We notice you have two outfits available on a rental site... But just two! Would you, as a fashion designer, see this as a small step in the right direction?

AK: Definitely. The concept of renting has been around for quite a while. For clients who aspire to wear certain brands and designers, this gives them a foot in the market. I’m not sure how much it will grow, as most clients I interact with want to keep their couture outfits forever, especially bridalwear, since there are so many memories and emotions attached to them. And it’s something they can pass down to their kids.

BT: After your last showcase with Lakmé Fashion Week in March 2024, you were quoted saying, “India is home to thousands of native tribes, each with a distinct identity expressed through their clothing and way of life. The Bonda community of Odisha, renowned for their fearless spirit, inspired this collection with their signature rich beaded clothing, adorned with neon beads, shells and brass neck rings, complemented by fabrics woven at home.” Do you frequently turn to grassroots and tribal cultures for inspiration?

AK: A concept and what I want to say in my collection is always the starting point. These help to keep the focus on something specific, or one can go all over the place. Generally, I look at things I like, something inspiring from India, and see if I can make it much more modern. I’ve always been drawn to tribal art. India has such a rich heritage and such diversity. I think people can learn so much about it. Designing a collection around it does educate people and bring to light things they could never have imagined.

BT: With the big fat Indian wedding going viral as a phenomenon after the Ambani festivities, do you foresee a greater interest in Indian fashion from around the world?

AK: I think India is going to be a powerhouse of fashion in the coming future, with luxury coming out on top. People from the world over are now open to wearing Indian designers and brands. I think the next top brand will definitely be from India.

BT: How does it feel to have your unique fashion sensibility featured at the Phoenix Art Museum in Arizona in the US? How did that showcase materialise? Your fashion is clearly viewed as art! How does that idea sit with you?

AK: We simply received an email from the museum, got on a call, discussed the collection, and it just happened. They had been following the brand for quite a while. About viewing my fashion sensibility as art... This is a very long debate! I do think if you have a story to tell—and for us, it was about Indian craft and its history—I am okay with people thinking of my fashion as art! As long as they would like to wear it and not hang it up on walls!

BT: What can we look forward to next from the brands? More eclectic and statement jackets? Loungey silhouettes? Perhaps more experiments with laser-cut denims or collaborations?

AK: One can expect more energy, a younger and more international collection as we are branching out to overseas markets soon.

BT: A message to young designers entering this hyper-competitive market.

AK: Figure out who you are as a designer and what you want to say, and then stay true to that. Figure out your own unique design process; it will help you stay original.

Lead image: Anamika Khanna

Also read: Falguni and Shane Peacock on completing two decades in the industry, conquering global style miles, and more

Also read: Designer Vani Vats on the evolving wedding industry, the ideal Vvani woman, her Piroi collection, and more

This article first appeared in Brides Today, October 2024 print edition.